2019 Bricco Ernesto Vino Rosso
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Grape: Nebbiolo
Culinary Suggestions: Truffle/mushroom dishes, charcuterie or roasted meats
Vineyard Practice: Organic
About
Bricco Ernesto, nestled in the charming municipality of Priocca, has been crushing grapes for four generations, mostly the classic Nebbiolo. But what's really got our attention is their incredible Arneis, which is the brainchild of the current custodian, Renato Vezza. This guy's a true hustler; he developed his sommelier talents among the hustle and bustle of London, Canada, and Australia before returning to Priocca to take the reigns.
The vineyard's not exactly massive - just 0.6 hectares - with only 0.3 hectares currently in use, and another 0.3 hectares planted just in 2019. But what they lack in acreage, they more than make up for in altitude. Renato's patch is perched at an impressive 280 meters, making it one of the highest spots in Roero. And the Arneis vines? Well, they face north, of course.
The soil is mostly sand (70%), with a bit of limestone (20%) and clay (10%). This sandy base drives the roots to dig deep in search of moisture. But it's not just the dirt that's got us excited - the vineyard is all about sustainable practices. The grapes are de-stemmed and undergo a quick four-day maceration on the skins before fermentation, which is carried out using indigenous yeast in a mix of amphora (50%) and large barrels (50%) for 35 days. The wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation and is aged for nine months in the same containers before resting in the bottle for an additional three months. No filtration is necessary.
Tasting Notes
Roero Nebbiolo. I love the bianco from this producer. It’s so good. The red is no slouch either, though Roero offers a different sort of Nebbiolo experience, for sure.
Very aromatic style. I’m thinking orange peel, dried herbs, menthol, spice and red cherry. Medium-bodied, fine brick dust tannin, dried red fruits and amaro, a certain coolness to it, but very refreshing and individual too. There’s also some almond paste sweetness, and a dry and boney finish of excellent length. Brightly lit and full of energy.
93 points - Gary Walsh, The Wine Front June 2022
Drink: 2023 - 2030