2017 G.D. Vajra Freisa ‘Kye’ Langhe Rosso
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Grape: Freisa
Culinary Suggestions: Truffle and mushroom dishes, mature cheeses or game meats
Vineyard Practice: Sustainable and Organic
About
G.D. Vajra - “a world of sublime hand-crafted, artisan wines of the very highest level”, as Antonio Galloni calls it - is run in the second generation by Giuseppe, Isidoro and Francesca Vaira, lovingly overseen by father Aldo and mother Milena. It was Aldo that founded G.D. Vajra, kicking off with a counter-cultural twist by returning to his ancestors’ land in the early ‘70s, when all else were deserting the countryside in droves. That spirit of tradition with an adaptive streak characterises this far-sighted outfit. Indeed, Aldo’s decision to embrace the rogue ‘j’ on the label – a print error that happens to hark back to the pre-1920s spelling of the family name – says a lot about the clan’s capacity to roll with it and nimbly fuse its roots with the future.
Over the years they’ve acquired coveted holdings in their home commune of Barolo as well as Novello, Sinio and Serralunga - this latter home to the stupendous wines they produce under their Luigi Baudana label.
The family excels with all the Piedmont staples – Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Moscato and the very rare Freisa, as well as Riesling that is far better than it has any right to be. Barolo Albe has made a name for itself as one of the best-value Barolos going, while Bricco delle Viole has cemented a reputation as one of the finest cru Barolo wines, period. At the more everyday level, there’s a wonderful Langhe Rosso, Langhe Nebbiolo and the highly original, intensely drinkable Claré J.C. – a wickedly bright, tank-raised, 25% whole-bunch, nouveau-style Nebb. - Importer Note
Tasting Note
The ripe vintage has delivered a pretty lush, almost come-hither Freisa here. Liquorice, almond biscotti and spice, ripe raspberry and cherry, with plenty of dried flower perfume. It’s supple and spicy, but still firm with lots of pumice stone and pippy grape seed tannin, opulence and fragrance, and a warm brick and new leather finish of freshness and excellent length. A whole lot of personality, delivered with the typical class of Vajra. Lovely!
94 points – Gary Walsh, The Wine Front November 2021
Drink: 2022 - 2028+
This wine has developed its own cult following over the years. Named after a local dialectal expression for "who is it," the 2017 Langhe Freisa Kyè is super intense in this hot vintage. The wine draws upon those vintage conditions to present an extra dark appearance, with aromas of Morello cherry, dried blackberry and spice. I always get a subtle note of black pepper with the popular Freisa grape. The mouthfeel is rich, and you can really sink your teeth into this cheerful and unusual red from Piedmont. 6,000 bottles are hitting the market now.
93 points - Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Drink: 2021 - 2025