2017 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape: Sangiovese
Culinary Suggestions: Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine Steak), lamb chops, rich pasta dishes or charcuterie
Vineyard Practice: Sustainable
About
Uccelliera is the name of an old homestead laid on the hillslope of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, overlooking the ancient volcano of Mount Amiata. Some Middle Age papers report of the existence of this place, called Uccelliera (aviary), near Sant' Antimo Abbey and the alabaster quarries, attributing the origin of its name to the use of raptors for hunting.
Andrea Cortonesi is the only son of a family of sharecroppers and has been working in the vineyards and in all the related activities of the farm since his childhood, when he started helping his father.
Both his passion and the mentorship of some of the most respected wine personalities sharpen his skills as a winemaker and entrepreneur so that in 1986 he acquires the farm with century-old olive trees, pastures and a small vineyard. Andrea grew up in that culture of farmers made of sacrifice and hard work where you learn to have deep respect, love and humility for the land. - Winery Note
“Andrea Cortonesi’s biggest competition these days is oddly enough from himself! The Uccelliera wines are as good as they’ve ever been, but it is impossible not to compare them with the wines Cortonesi makes under the Voliero label. Uccelliera is located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the southern part of Montalcino, where the terroirs yield big, dramatic Rossi and Brunelli.” – ANTONIO GALLONI
Tasting Notes
Balsam herbs, cocoa and sweet white smoke give way to crushed black cherry and plum as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is elegance personified, silky, deep and round, yet delivering a core of saline-minerality that creates a savory sensation – umami, in a way – with masses of ripe red fruits and confectionary spices to contrast. The tannins are sweet and round, presenting a chiseled structure; yet it’s not forceful. This tapers off with a tart twang of sour wild berries under an air of lavender and violets. Wow; there is so much concentration and depth here, but also balance. In fact, there’s hardly a sign of this being from a difficult vintage. While I expect it will have a shorter life than an Uccelliera Brunello from a classic year, the 2017 should not be missed.
94+ - Eric Guido, Vinous Media November 2021
Drink: 2024 - 2029
The Uccelliera 2017 Brunello di Montalcino does a great job showcasing that extra power and brawn of the vintage and the richer textural structure of the southern side of the appellation. The bouquet is up front and beautifully measured with lots of red and purple fruit definition followed by spice, tar and earthiness. What sets this wine apart in this hot and dry vintage is the mouthfeel. It delivers fiber, flesh and soft tannins. The alcohol is a bit much at 15% in this production of 28,666 bottles.
94 points - Monica Larner, Wine Advocate February 2022
Drink: 2024 - 2040