2019 Domaine Belargus Anjou 'Quarts'

Region: Quarts-de-Chaume, Anjou, Loire Valley, France

Grape: 100% Chenin Blanc

Vineyard Practice: Certified organic, practising biodynamic

Culinary Suggestions: Shellfish, Truffle Dishes, Parmigiano Cheese

Alcohol: 13%

Bottle Size: 750 ml

With a radiant golden hue and a profoundly aromatic finish, showcasing a unique blend of floral and fruity notes, it captures the sophisticated minerality of its schist-rich terroir. This vintage presents a more concentrated and textured experience, with a notably robust tannic profile promising complexity and ageing potential.

Origins

Domaine Belargus introduces revolutionary dynamism to the Loire Valley under the guidance of Ivan Massonnat, a wine enthusiast who also has interests in Philippe Pacalet in Burgundy. The acquisition of Jo Pithon's esteemed estate and additional key vineyards has expanded the domaine to encompass 24 hectares of the prime Anjou Noir terroir, including celebrated plots like "Coteau des Treilles," "Clos des Ruchères," and "Les Quarts." This newcomer has quickly garnered attention for producing wines of Grand Cru calibre.

The estate's commitment to organic and biodynamic methodologies, pioneered by Jo Pithon and Guy Bossard, has established it as a leader in the revitalisation of some of France's most valued vineyards. The Coteau des Treilles, a particularly steep 2.72-hectare plot in Rochefort with slopes ranging from 30% to 70%, was reinvigorated by Pithon in the late 1990s. Situated on magmatic rocks from the Armorican Massif, this monopole yields Chenin of exceptional quality, deeply reflective of its intricate geological structure.

"Les Quarts" is a distinguished plot with a storied past that shaped the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation. According to historical accounts, before the French Revolution, the lords of Haute-Guerche would fulfill their obligations to Ronceray Abbey with the first quarter of their harvest, thus originating the name of the appellation.

Occupying 3.08 hectares, "Les Quarts" is strategically located on the southern slope, where Precambrian schists underpin the soil, lending refined elegance and a prolonged finish to its wines. The 2020 'Quarts' cuvée, crafted in a dry style, qualifies for the Anjou AOP, showcasing versatility in its classification.

Cork Tasting Notes

The 2019 'Quarts' is a compelling expression of Chenin Blanc, showcasing a lush and round palate yet retaining an exquisite elegance. This full-bodied cuvée features densely packed fruit flavours that are balanced beautifully by a fine structure of acidity and tannins, culminating in a long and aromatic finish. Compared to its 2020 successor, which is notably puristic and fresh, this vintage presents a more concentrated and textured experience, with a notably robust tannic profile. This wine stands out for its complexity and the sophisticated depth it brings to the palate, marking it as a distinctive and mature interpretation of dry Chenin.

Critic Reviews

96 Points

Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous Media 

The 2019 Quarts is almost Burgundian-like in its powerful, savory and reductive nose. Tiny, frost-affected crop levels created an intense, concentrated wine. It is firm, taut and young, with a line of confident acidity piercing the wine from start to the long finish - it's the verticality that comes from schist. There's smoky bacon, toast, citrus fruit and apple on the nose, but this is still yet to fully show its hand. Spending 26 months on lees in both barrel and demi-muids added nutty, pastry-like characters. It's 14.5% alcohol—I’ll forgive it—but I'd happily hand out a higher score if it was a smidgen lower, although it's sometimes difficult to know whether it's the schist or alcohol warming things up on this terroir. This is a first-class wine that needs a long time to come around and should be on your radar if you're a collector.

~ Drink 2025 - 2038

98 Points

Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate

The citrus-colored 2019 Anjou Sec Quarts opens with a deep and intense yet pure, refined and elegant, noble and aromatic bouquet of perfectly ripe and concentrated stone fruits, jelly fruits, lemons, grapefruits, salts and crystalline rocks. Crystalline and fresh on the elegant palate, this is a full-bodied, intense, dense and extract-sweet yet also refined and stimulating Chenin with noble citrus fruit bitters and fine tannins on the long, tight and intense finish. This is reduced power paired with finesse and elegance. Far too young to be served at this stage, this is a promising, very intense yet still restrained Quarts that is not as austere as the Rouères and not as rich and expansive as the Veau but possibly something in between. There are graphite notes on the aftertaste. This is another rather intellectual dry Chenin from the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation that can only be used for noble sweet wines. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.

~ Drink 2028 - 2060