2019 Fattoria Rodano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 'Vigna Viacosta'
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape: Sangiovese
Vineyard Practice: Organic
Culinary Suggestions: Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine Steak), Lamb Chops, Rich Pasta Dishes, Charcuterie
Alcohol: 14.5%
Bottle Size: 750ml
Origins
The Rodano fattoria (farm), only reachable by a unsealed road off the Via Chiantigiana, was for centuries, a staging post for pilgrims travelling south to Rome. It sits atop a high hill and surveys a classically Tuscan landscape of rolling vine-striped hills and valleys, including the amphitheatre of the Viacosta vineyard that provides fruit for its single-vineyard bottling.
Fattoria Rodáno also lies off the beaten track in the press but it is unquestionably a top source for classically made and complex Chianti. Located in Castellina in the heart of the Chianti Classico district, the estate dates back as a wine-producing property to the sixteenth century.
Thankfully, nestled amongst the many vast wineries pumping out either tart and insipid, or confected and brutish Chianti, the Pozzesi family understand and developed a dedicated following for their Chianti which reflects a sense of place and tradition and have made their ‘classico’ from 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Canaiolo, grown in southwest-facing vineyards in the Castellina sub zone.
Oak aging is done in large Slovenian botti di rovere which impart little more than a seasoning, allowing the purity of the fruit and balanced structure to shine on their own merits.
These days it is son Enrico Pozzesi (pictured above) who handles the management and winemaking. One of the reasons for the fantastic quality here is that the domaine’s former winemaker was Guilio Gambelli, who passed away in 2012. Gambelli was one of the most legendary winemakers in Chianti, consulting for such estates as Montevertine and Gianfranco Soldera. Enrico worked at his side for many years and Rodáno is one of the best-kept secrets in all of Tuscany…
The style of the Rodáno Chianti bottlings is traditional, with Sangiovese playing a dominant role in all of the estate’s various bottlings. The Chianti Classico (a blend of 90% Sangiovese with 5% each of Colorino and Canaiolo) is aged entirely in large Slovenian “botte,” and the Riserva is a combination of these large casks and a small ammount of used barriques. Like all great traditional Sangiovese-based wines, the Rodáno wines show exceptionally lovely, bright acidity that adds freshness and focus on the palate. There is a liveliness and drive to these wines that resonates not only in the mouth but in all the senses; a very rare quality.
The heart and soul of their vineyard holdings is the beautifully situated vineyard of Viacosta, which is a perfect, south-facing bowl of old vines, that average between thirty-five and forty-five years of age. In top vintages, the Rodáno Riserva Chianti bottling is made from the Viacosta vineyard. -Importer Note
Tasting Note
100% Sangiovese from the famed Viacosta vineyard - organically grown grapes, hand tended vines, hand harvested, fermented with natural yeasts and aged in large neutral botte grande (foudre)
This is another superb wine; though this is exclusively from their Viacosta parcel; it is overall more concentrated than the wine above. From an exceptionally good vintage it today it drinks really beautifully, imparting elegant cherry and plum fruit and very attractive savory notes of tobacco and spice that complement and add more dimension on the finish. It is a superb, complex Chianti that will improve for many, many years. A beauty. -Importer Note
Critic Reviews
92 points
Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media September 2023
The 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Viacosta is stellar. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2019 hits the palate with masses of black cherry, gravel, scorched earth, licorice and spice. Readers should plan on cellaring this for at least a few years, as the tannins are formidable today. It’s a Chianti Classico for readers who like strapping, brooding wines. The Viacosta is a rich Riserva endowed with Brunello-like structure, complexity and pedigree. It spent three years in cask and a year in cement.
~Drink 2024 - 2034