2019 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto Costi & Fossati

Region: Piedmont, Italy

Grape: Dolcetto

Culinary Suggestions: Antipasto or lamb cutlets

Vineyard Practice: Sustainable and Organic

About

G.D. Vajra, a renowned producer of hand-crafted, artisanal wines that Antonio Galloni himself has called "artisan wines of the very highest level". This winery is a true family affair, run by the second generation of Vairas, with Aldo and Milena keeping a watchful eye over things. He went against the grain and returned to his ancestors' land in the 1970s, when everyone else was fleeing to the cities. 

But that's the spirit of G.D. Vajra, tradition with an adaptive streak. And they're not afraid to mix things up, even the label is a nod to their roots, with the rogue 'j' reflecting the pre-1920s mis-spelt label of the family name.

Through the years, the Vajra family has acquired prized vineyards in Barolo, Novello, Sinio, and Serralunga - the latter being home to their Luigi Baudana label and some truly stupendous wines.

But it's not just about the labels. They excel in all the Piedmontese staples: Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Moscato, and even the rare Freisa. Their Dolcetto is a standout among their impressive portfolio of Piedmontese classics. This is a wine that doesn't get the attention it deserves, but the Vairas are changing that. With its deep purple hue, a bouquet of violets and dark berries, and a velvety texture that melts in your mouth, this is a wine that'll make you sit up and take notice.

Albeit, the Dolcetto may not have the same cachet as their Barolo Albe or Bricco delle Viole, but it's no less impressive. It's a wine that speaks to their commitment to their roots, their willingness to adapt and innovate, and their unwavering pursuit of excellence.

Tasting Note

Complex and tightly-wound Dolcetto here. Fresh blackberry and dark cherry, spice and black pepper, thyme and aniseed, new leather. Medium-bodied, glassy and firm feel to acidity, intense shale-like tannin, tangy boysenberry and blackberry, a distinctly ‘mineral’ feel to it, and a lively finish of fine length. Pretty tense as at now, and while I do enjoy the tussle, it really needs a few more years in bottle before it rolls out the goods. 

94 points – Gary Walsh, The Wine Front August 2021

Drink: 2023 - 2030+