2020 Bricco Ernesto Vino Bianco
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Grape: Arneis
Culinary Suggestions: Vitello Tonnato, grilled fish or Italian antipasti
Vineyard Practice: Organic
About
Bricco Ernesto, nestled in the charming municipality of Priocca, has been crushing grapes for four generations, mostly the classic Nebbiolo. But what's really got our attention is their incredible Arneis, which is the brainchild of the current custodian, Renato Vezza. This guy's a true hustler; he developed his sommelier talents among the hustle and bustle of London, Canada, and Australia before returning to Priocca to take the reigns.
The vineyard's not exactly massive - just 0.6 hectares - with only 0.3 hectares currently in use, and another 0.3 hectares planted just in 2019. But what they lack in acreage, they more than make up for in altitude. Renato's patch is perched at an impressive 280 meters, making it one of the highest spots in Roero. And the Arneis vines? Well, they face north, of course.
The soil is mostly sand (70%), with a bit of limestone (20%) and clay (10%). This sandy base drives the roots to dig deep in search of moisture. But it's not just the dirt that's got us excited - the vineyard is all about sustainable practices. The grapes are de-stemmed and undergo a quick four-day maceration on the skins before fermentation, which is carried out using indigenous yeast in a mix of amphora (50%) and large barrels (50%) for 35 days. The wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation and is aged for nine months in the same containers before resting in the bottle for an additional three months. No filtration is necessary.
Tasting Notes
Roero Arneis, given skin contact, old wood and anfora. These wines are idiosyncratic and outstanding.
Oranges, liquorice root, dried flowers, apricots, a bit of spice and honey too. It’s full-bodied, deep and fleshy, stony and waxy feel, plenty of grip but the tannin feels pliant and luxurious, if that makes and sense, fennel perfume, subtle warmth, but keeps itself fresh, despite its generous size. Finish is nutty, perfumed, all honey and herb, and very long. It’s a wonderful wine. Distinct character and, also, very clean in its delivery.
95 points - Gary Walsh, The Wine Front April 2022
Drink: 2022 - 2028