2021 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly 'Cuvee La Chapelle'
Region: Beaujolais, Burgundy, France
Grape: Gamay
Culinary Suggestions: Garlic Snails, Chinese Cuisine, Roast Duck
Vineyard Practice: Organic
About
Vineyards have been planted on Mont Brouilly since Roman times and ever since then, vines have never left this isolated hill in the heart of Beaujolais.
In 1383, the original portion of Château Thivin's cellars was constructed, making it the oldest estate in Côte de Brouilly and one of the most highly regarded producers in the region.
On 8th June 1877, Zaccharie and Marguerite Geoffray bought Château Thivin and its two hectares of vineyards surrounding the estate. Today, the 5th and 6th generations of the Geoffray family are the current custodians, with each succeeding generation contributing new plots of land to build up the estate.
Their vineyards are farmed organically, consisting of mainly old vine gamay situated on the predominantly southern slopes of Mont Brouilly, a small extinct volcano. Thanks to the combination of old vines, exceptional sites, and tireless dedication in the vineyards, the yield is modest but consists of perfectly ripened small bunches.
During harvest, the bunches are carefully placed into small crates to avoid damage before being tipped into sealed vats filled with complete bunches. The simple process continues as the vats are left undisturbed for 7-10 days. Any fermenting wine resulting from the weight of the bunches pressing down is drained out, and the remaining whole bunches are pressed. The young wine is then aged in large old barrels for 6-12 months before bottling. Such a basic process yields spectacular results in the bottle.
La Chapelle is a very steep, stony plot at the top of Mont Brouilly, which presents the heightened typicality of the “Côte de Brouilly” appellation.
Average vine age is 60 years, grown at the top of Brouilly hill on dry soil made up of a blue metamorphic Diorite Rock, south-facing with an altitude of 450 metres.
Tasting Notes
Deep and fascinating nose with a wide spectrum of aromas from black raspberry to mulberry and smoke. At once concentrated and crisp with stacks of firm yet fine tannins. Very long, extremely stony and racy finish. From a very high altitude and steep parcel with volcanic soil at the top of the south side of Mont Brouilly, planted with 70 to 80 year old vines. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.
94 points - jamessuckling.com December 2022