2021 Domaine de la Borde Arbois Pupillin 'Ad Infernum et Salutem'

Region: Jura, France

Grape: Pinot Noir, Trousseau

Culinary Suggestions: Veal, Beef Carpaccio, Pork Sausage, Charcuterie

Vineyard Practice: Organic, Biodynamic

About

Julien Mareschal was part of a wave of young vignerons who set up camp in the Jura in the early to mid-naughties. Unlike some of the others, Julien's family grew cereal, not grapes, and for a while it seemed like he would follow suit. After a degree in agriculture he moved on to a diploma in oenology at Dijon. Previous experience in Burgundy and Bordeaux was supplemented by his work with notable Jura producers Xavier Reverchon in Poligny and Pascal Clairet in Arbois. These two vignerons gave Julien an insight to both traditional Jura and a more modern approach.

In the early naughties it was possible for young vigneron wannabes like Julien to set up at relatively low cost in the Jura compared to other more famous French regions. So in 2003 at the ripe old age of 23 he bought 3.5 hectares of well-tended and well-situated vines in the blue marl-rich valleys of Pupillin, one of the Jura’s most famous and finest sub-regions. The following year he bought another hectare and now has roughly 5 hectares in different sites averaging around 40 years of age. The bulk of Julien’s small holding is in Savagnin (almost 50%) with 1ha of Chardonnay and smaller amounts of Ploussard (Poulsard), Pinot Noir and Trousseau. The Savagnin and Ploussard grow on the classic marnes (marl) soils – grey, blue (pictured above) and red, with the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau on clay limestone. The vineyards are fairly steep in slope at between 20-35%. Starting from scratch meant Julien had to sell part of his first harvests and give music lessons on the side in the early years to survive. He remains a keen musician and holds regular jazz, folk and wine nights at the winery.

Having worked his vineyards in a reasonable fashion since he started his small domaine, he began conversion to organics and biodynamics in 2009 and is certified organic, and ‘officially’ converted to biodynamic certification in 2012. His good friend and fellow BD advocate, François Duvivier of Domaines Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay and Pélican in the Jura, mentored him in his biodynamic practices. Julien works alone in both the vines and the winery and has the attention to detail and intimate knowledge of his vines and work required to make great wines.

In the winery he uses both traditional and modern approaches successfully and harmoniously, producing a fabulous range of wines which share elements of Burgundy with expressions of the Jura (no wonder we love them so much!). Hand harvesting, hand sorting, hand destemming with some whole bunches for the reds, old and used oak all ensure the Pupillin terroir is not clouded. Despite working with low (whites) or no SO2 (reds), Julien’s wines are precise and pure with pronounced minerality, great concentration and freshness and the ability to defy age. A 2004 Chardonnay and 2005 Ploussard over a simple vigneron’s lunch were spectacular – so fresh and youthful. The Ploussard was even zero added SO2 and 10 years old!

The wine styles are typical of northern Jura with lighter fragrant reds, taught Savagnins and mineral edged Burgundian styled Chardonnays. - Importer Note

Tasting Notes