2022 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 'Clos des Briords' Vieilles Vignes
Region: Loire Valley, France
Grape: Melon de Bourgogne
Culinary Suggestions: Oysters, Tempura Prawns, Sushi/Sashimi
Practices: Organic
About
Domaine de la Pépière in Maisdon sur Sèvre in the Muscadet, is one of the greatest eststes of the Loire Valley. The reputation comes from the vibrancy and density of the wines which reflect their terroir, mostly decomposed Granite, Gabbro and Gniess.
There are 28 hectares of vines; about 8 hectares lie on the granite of Clisson in the more southerly part of the appellation, another 12 hectares further north, on the granite of Château Thébaud; both of which contain veins of metamorphic gneiss with amphibolite stones. Recently there is also wine from the commune of Gorges which will complement their range of Muscadet Cru Communal beautifully.
Domaine de la Pépière is a standout in the region for several reasons. Access to old vines - the vines are old, some over 70 years and all are planted 'selection massale'. Selection massale is an ancient and laborious method of replanting by taking the cuttings from the old and best vines. It takes about four years to produce a quarter of the number of vines of the initial cuttings.
As artisans they prefer selection massale because it provides vine diversity, resulting in complex wines. Vines are farmed organically, harvest is by hand, even the basic Muscadet Sur Lie is aged on lees until the following spring, and they use only indigenous yeasts – all such practices are practically non-existant in the Muscadet.
His "regular" Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is always an outstanding value and his old-vine cuvées - Clos des Briords, Gras Moutons, Clisson, Clos des Morines and his special long-elevage wines have helped elevate the image of Muscadet for wine-lovers around the world.
These days the estate is in the hand of Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix who are ensuring not only that the reputation is intact but that Domaine de la Pépière will be producing even better wines for many years to come.
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 'Briords' Vieilles Vignes
First produced in 1988, this great Muscadet is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines (all over 60 years old, with a high percentage much older) on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage. - Importer Note
Tasting Notes
The 2022 Briords is beautifully defined on the nose with aromas of menthol, iodine, white orchard fruits and verbena. Perfectly balanced and medium-bodied, satiny and mineral, it’s tense with bright acids and concludes with a mineral finish of crushed stones. This is a stunning, energetic, delicately tangy wine made from vines planted on granodiorite (granite from Château-Thébaud).
92 points - Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate August 2023
Drink: 2023 - 2030